A Free People in Our Land

The panoramic view of Gaza from Moshav Netiv Asarah

by Rabbi Howard Goldsmith

I sit composing this final blog post on the terrace of our room at the Carlton Hotel in Tel Aviv. The view is of sailboats, seashore, swimming pools and the Old City of Jaffa. As with so much of this trip, the old and the new are juxtaposed in front of our eyes. Yet, now, after 10 days walking the history of our people’s relationship with this land through sites and texts and meetings and lectures, the old and the new make sense together.

Today began with a drive back towards the south. We passed Yavneh where the ancient rabbis recreated Judaism from a sacrificial cult to a religion of study and prayer. We passed IKEA where every Israel makes an annual pilgrimage for their annual sale. We passed ancient groves of olive trees and wheat fields where nothing has changed for a millennium. We passed the modern port city of Ashdod where most of Israel’s goods arrive. And finally we came to a small moshav, a small village called Netiv Asara which sits on the border with the Gaza Strip.

A man named Roz told us about life on the Moshav. How it was founded by settlers who has been removed from the Sinai peninsula after the peace treaty with Egypt. How it was firmly within Israel’s borders but nevertheless suffered from shelling from Gaza. How their children developed the instinct to run to bomb shelter the instant they hear a siren and how then can return to the playground and pick up their game 5 minutes later as if nothing had happened. We learned that 90% of the people who live in the moshav get some sort of counseling to help deal with the stress of living so close to Gaza. We drove through their neighborhood of beautiful homes and could see why there is a long waiting list to get a house in the community. And then we stood on a sand dune and looked into Gaza. In the distance Gaza City and up close villages and refugee camps. We got back on our bus and Roz said, “You Americans are so polite so you’re not asking the question that is on your mind: You seem normal so why the hell are you living here?” Roz answered his own question, “I live here because no bit of violence or threat of violence is going to move my stubborn ass from this land, from our land, from a single inch of Israel.”

Next stop was a look at the Erez Crossing, the main crossing point for goods and people into and out of Gaza. Twenty years ago Gazans and Israelis lived in symbiosis: Palestinians crossed the border each day to work in Israel and returned with money to support their families. Israelies went to Gaza for the best Eastern goods and the celebrate weddings with their neighbors. Goods were traded freely at this crossing point and others like it. Today, few people cross and then only for humanitarian or medical reasons. It is not a hermetically sealed border. Each day, for instance, four truck loads of cement enter Gaza from Israel and enough food for the whole population of Gaza. And yet, the crossing has the deserted feel of a place forgotten by populations that cannot coexist, for whom symbiosis has completely broken down.

Our final stop in the south was the police station of the city of Sederot. After going through a gate we gazed at hundreds of remains of missiles that had landed in and around the city. Over 6 years 7,000 missiles fell from the skies after being fired from Gaza. We could not help but ask ourselves how long the US would take to respond to this kind of attack from a neighbor. Surely we would not have the restraint shown by Israel: 6 years and 7,000 missiles before answering with force this past fall.

Our day then lightened up. We enjoyed a lunch at a local sandwich joint in Sederot and then headed back to Tel Aviv. We viewed the mosaics that tell the history of Tel Aviv inside the Shalom Tower. We then walked up Rothschild Boulevard imagining the sand dunes that were hear only 104 years ago and the visionary Jaffa residents who came to build a modern suburb outside the ancient, crowded city of Jaffa.

After a quick coffee and ice cream (of course) break, we entered Independence Hall. A short film told us the story of the founding of Tel Aviv and the declaration of the State of Israel by David Ben Guion. We then entered the hall and heard the recording of that fateful moment. As the strains of the Israeli national anthem, Hatikvah, entered the room, there wasn’t a dry eye in the place.

Back on my terrace at the Carlton Hotel a plane comes in over the hotel from the Mediterranean headed to Ben Gurion Airport. I wonder who is on that plane. New immigrants, Israelis returning home, tourists coming to visit? Tourists coming home. As we head to our homes in the United States, each of us sense the truth and the power in the words of the Israeli national anthem Hatikvah: L’hiot am chofshi b’artzeinu eterz zion virushalayim, “To be a free people in Our Land, the Land of Israel and Jerusalem.” Though we do not live here, we now know that this land is our source. It is the place where our ancestors wrote our sacred texts. It is the site of our most treasured stories. It is the place where Jews have reinvented themselves time and again: a family, a nation, a state, a religious community, and again, as a State for our Nation in our Land. It is the land of the modern day Israelis. It is also Our Land. We have forged a connection that we will always cherish and foster and celebrate.

L’Shana Haba’ah Birushalayim, Next Year in Jerusalem!

P.S. A funny anecdote from today: When it was time to leave the Gaza overlook with Roz an Israeli military patrol vehicle was blocking the road. The driver was not in the truck… and the soldier in the passenger seat was fast asleep. So Roz went over to wake the sleeping soldier so he would move the vehicle. He wouldn’t.  So, as only an Israeli would, Roz opened the drivers side door, turned the key in the ignition, and moved the vehicle out of the way. A round of astounded applause greeted him as he got back on the bus. Only in Israel!!

Hanging out in the Netiv Asara community center

Roz explaining the history and life of the Moshav

Wendy and Marcie outside the synagogue at the Moshav

Roz explains the extra security measures taken to protect buildings in the Moshav

Marcie, Ellen and Marlene outside a bus stop/bomb shelter on the Moshav. The image honors the baby boom that took place 9 months after the last Gaza war from all the time in the bomb shelters with nothing to do…

An artist’s installation on the wall with Gaza. It says “pathway to peace”

John gazes into Gaza

A view of the Erez Crossing from the Moshav

Roz getting in to move the in-the-way army jeep

Arthur, Marylin and Barrie entering the Sederot Police Station

Some of the Kasam rocket remains collected by the Sederot police

A close up of a Kassam

The mosaics in the lobby of Shalom Tower in Tel Aviv. Read their story HERE.)

Bye bye from Tel Aviv!

Farewell dinner

Farewell dinner

Farewell dinner

Next year in Jerusalem!

A Light Unto Ourselves

The panoramic view from Kibbutz Eshbal

by Susan and Gene Resnick

A good night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast sends us on our way from Kibbutz Gonen in the Upper Galilee, with a clear view of the snow covered peak of Mt. Hermon. Kibbutz movement began in 1909, and has continually evolved from agricultural based communal living with rotating responsibilities to a variety of organizational responses to modern life.

Our driver Yisrael navigates the bus an hour south to Kibbutz Eshbal, an educational community established in 2000 as part of the Dror Israel Zionist movement (high commitment to social involvement, modest lifestyle, education focus). The 85 members of the kibbutz have established the Eshbal Youth Society, a boarding school for significantly troubled youth, many of whom are Ethiopian. They also have an outreach program for Arab education in the region, and the only bi-lingual school in Galilee. Eshbal is part of a national network of 1200 educators in 16 such communities, who reach thousands of troubled youth in various programs and many thousands of Arab students.

Eshbal is 50% supported by government grants, 40% by sales of educational programs and books, and 10% by philanthropy. At the end of our visit, we were fortunate to meet 4 Ethiopian girls taken in by Eshbal in October following kidnapping and abuse by Bedouins in Ethiopia. Their rehabilitation and education is making remarkable progress. All together a moving story and mission.

Next stop, closer to the coast just south of Haifa, is Yemin Orde, a youth Aliyah village of extraordinary achievement. Founded in 1953 as a home for children whose parents perished in the Holocaust, the facility was expanded over the last 30 years with Chaim Peri’s philosophy of “the village way.” We heard from Peri and one of his assistants, Racheli, an Ethiopian. The village way separates school life and home life, making Yemin Orde is a safe place for 500 children, over half Ethiopian, with Brazilian, Muslim and poor Israeli kids as well. The kids are mostly high schoolers, but some are younger; they go on to the military and other successes, including one who is a recently elected Ethiopian member of the Knesset.

The village is 60-70% funded by the State, the rest coming in large part from US donations – several B’nai Mitzvah connections are made, including one of Marlene’s daughter’s friends from Larchmont. The educational initiatives have been expanded to other programs throughout Israel. A quick “schnitzel and salad” lunch in the dining hall ended our visit.

Last stop today was at Technion, Israel Institute of Technology in Haifa. Technion recently partnered with Cornell for a transformative applied science campus to be built on Roosevelt Island in New York City. Founded in 1923, Technion serves 12,500 undergraduate and graduate students in engineering, applied science and medicine. It is estimated that as much as 50% of NASDQ companies have some relation to Technion. The Israeli government funded initial activity in high tech, which has grown into a vibrant, highly commercial industry centralized in the area. The group split up to meet faculty members doing research in nanotechnology and in cellular drug delivery for cancer. The energy of the faculty and facilities at Technion were impressive.

An hour’s drive south to Tel Aviv brought us to the Carlton Hotel, dinner arrangements, and a well deserved rest after a day in modern Israel.

We wish safe travels to the LoCastros, who leave tonight due to an oddity of airline scheduling.

 

 

Gilad Perry from Kibbutz Eshbal explains their mission

 

Gene and Susan from the balcony at Eshbal overlooking some Arab towns with which Eshbal works

 

Marcie, Jen, Howard and Gilad

 

Marcie and John with the view from Yemin Orde in the background

 

Marlene, Ellen and Jen before hearing from the staff at Yemin Orde

Chaim Peri explains the Yemin Orde philosophy of “the village way” to our group

 

In the beautiful Yemin Orde synagogue

 

Emily admiring the work of the Technion in Haifa

 

Our guides at the Technion, Julia and Julia, help us decide which labs to visit: the nano-technology lab or the cancer research lab

 

A scientist demonstrates her nano-technology research to us at the Technion

 

War, Chocolate and Wine (Read it, you’ll see what we mean)

Our group with the wonderful soldiers who hosted us on their base in the Golan

Tuesday, March 5th, 2013. 23 Adar 5773

Happy birthday to Ellen and to Bill!

If you only know Israel from the news media, or from your religious studies, it would be hard to imagine what a vibrant, colorful, diverse and dynamic place this is. We are in a thriving country, due to the tenacity, creativity and constant ingenuity of the Israelis.

Citizens are not cowering in fear, they are living their lives (loud and proud!) They are taking their kids to see the Chinese acrobats and ice carvers in the “Ice City” in Jerusalem, they are taking them to soccer practice and music classes.

Yes, these same kids report to the army when they are 18, but it sounds like for most, the years spent in the service are a bonding, maturing and meaningful experience.

The reality is that Israel is a TINY country, more like the size of New Jersey. The whole country. Literally. And its bordering neighbors aren’t exactly Canada. There is one area where the entire country is only 9 miles across, and from the northernmost point to the border on the south is only a 5 hour drive. The whole country has about the same population as New York City – less than 8 million people.

Many outsiders perceive Israel as a strictly Jewish state, when the reality is that 1 in 5 Israeli citizens are Arab. Ten percent of the Arab population is Christian, and 90% are Muslim. Arabs hold 12 seats on the Knesset, and at least one member of the Supreme Court is Arab. While a mezzuzah might be hung on the door posts of every hotel we have stayed in, many of the hotel staff are not Jewish.

We have also seen a very diverse Jewish population, representing more than 100 countries (over half of the 196 official countries in the world.). There is also a diversity in terms of religious identity, from the ultra-Orthodox to the totally secular.

Before we left, Rabbi Goldsmith explained that one of the advantages of being on a tour is that you don’t plan a thing. He went on to add that one of the disadvantages of being on a tour is that you don’t plan a thing.

I feel safe in saying that I think the only thing that most of us would like to change, would be to add more hours in the day! Our time here has been jam packed and filled with memorable experiences. Not a wasted stop on our itinerary – in fact, quite the contrary. I think we are all overwhelmed by our good fortune to be on this tour, so painstakingly planned by Rabbi Goldsmith and so well executed by our ARZA World guide, Muki. (And we have been well taken care of and serenaded to by our driver named . . . Yisrael!)

Today, we were up and out bright and early and our first stop was at the Tel Dan Nature Reserve. (Our own Rabbi Emeritus, Daniel Wolk, was part of the archeological dig team that discovered this site and he returned for many years to continue his work here.) There was a village here from the 7th century B.C.E. and one of the earliest references to the Beit David, or the House of David, was found here, on an inscription on a building stone. It validates that our ancestors were here, as written of in the Bible. Our nature walk through was quite green, as we walked along one of the largest tributaries of the Jordan River and discussed the immigration to the Land of Israel before the founding of the modern state.

Then we climbed into jeeps for a pretty rugged ride up to the Golan Heights. Again, the area was lush with orchards, fields of flowers and olives groves, and we stopped to say hello to one of the few herds of cows in Israel. We learned more about the complicated issues and challenges in the North, with their nearby borders to Syria and Lebanon. During the presentation about the 1967 Six Day War – next to field filled with live mines left by the Syrians – we were most unexpectedly served the most delicious hot tea and cookies!

After this, we went to the “Helicopter Memorial,” where 73 Israel soldiers perished in a helicopter collision 16 years ago. We had a poignant presentation by their squad commander, Colonel Cobi Maron, who told us about the tragic accident, and the impact it had on Israel and on future policies.

We then visited an army base; an artillery company up on the Golan Heights. The young soldiers surprised us with a demonstration of a mock fire mission and when sirens went off, they reacted as if it were a real threat. The soldiers ran to their stations to prepare for battle. It was quite powerful and for many of us, made this whole thing very REAL. Our prayers will be with these brave young men, and our congregation will be donating running shoes to all of the soldiers, which is something they need.

There hasn’t been a moment when any of us have felt afraid or unsafe, and we have been as close as half a mile from the border of Syria, and half a mile from the Lebanese border, and we have been within the West Bank several times.

After this rather intense experience, we enjoyed an outstanding lunch at a Druze village restaurant. The plates of salads, fresh warm pita, falafel, hummus, baba ganoush, and more just kept coming. It was a wonderful feast, served with a great flourish of hospitality.

In a day that just kept getting better, our next stop was the De Karina Artisan Chocolate factory! We were treated to a chocolate tasting, an opportunity to design and make our own chocolates, a tour to observe the chocolate making process and then a chance to purchase some of their gourmet products.

And on a tour led by the Rabbis Goldsmith, it is no surprise that we had on our itinerary not just one, but two vineyards. Today’s was the Bahat Winery, a boutique winery that produces wine from selected locally grown grapes, using mainly traditional and manual wine-making techniques. They produce about 5,000 bottles of wine, and plan to double that production next year. There are new local wines being produced in Israel that are winning international medals and are quite far cry from Manishevitz.

As we wind down our journey together, with just two full days left (and the operative word in that sentence is FULL), it is worth noting how amazing this group has been. For a People known for kvetching (just ask Moses!) there seems to be nary a complainer among us. Everyone has been thoughtful, considerate, on time, agreeable and have rallied each day. We hit the ground running and haven’t stopped, but no one is rebelling. (The mantra that has kept me going has been from Susan Amkraut’s grandmother, of blessed memory, “You’ll sleep when you’re dead!”)

So, one wonders if 26 mostly New York Jews can get along so well for 2 pretty intense weeks, maybe peace in the Middle East IS possible??

P.S. I just want to close with a posthumous shout out to my uncle, Mickey Fisher, who coached the Israeli men’s basketball team in the 1960 Olympics, held in Rome.

P.P.S. And a follow up to the story of that hapless ibex with the bag stuck on his muzzle: when we passed the herd again on our way back, the bag was gone and all was well! (And we got some great photos, so it was all good!)

Birthday boy (Bill) and birthday girl (Ellen) at Tel Dan

 

Tony, Tom, John, and Muki enjoying the raging river at Tel Dan

 

Wendy, Marcie and Joanne on our Tel Dan nature walk

 

Diane and Bill outside the ancient walls of Tel Dan

 

Muki and Howard at Tel Dan with Lebanon in the distance

 

Emily getting ready for our jeep ride up the Golan

 

Arthur is ready for an exciting jeep ride up the Golan

 

The yellow jeep races down the heights

 

On the Golan after an interesting explanation of the Six Day War and some delicious tea

 

Retired Colonel Cobi Meron explains the helicopter memorial

 

The incredible memorial to the Israeli soldiers who died in a tragic helicopter crash

 

Israeli soldier in action during the drill we were honored to observe

 

Birthday boy Bill gets to climb into the artillery vehicle

 

Barrie, Joan, and Marylin enjoying lunch in the Druze village of Mas’ade

 

Jane pauses as we overlook Syria from the eastern edge of the Golan

 

Bill and Jen get ready to make chocolate

 

Arthur and Barrie rolling truffles at De Karina Chocolate

 

Hinda’s amazing chocolate creations

 

Tom and Peggy after our wine tasting

 

Our inspiring bus driver Yisrael!

The Wilds of our Sacred Texts: Exploring Environmentalism, Talmud, Mysticism and Some Wine

On the Ark in the Ari Synagogue in Safed

by Wendy Rowden and John Carton

Another wonderful, exhilarating, exhausting day!

We have come to the very far north of Israel – the “Finger of the Galilee”.  To the north and west lies Lebanon; to the east is Syria (beyond the Golan Heights).  This part of Israel is a narrow strip of land, courtesy of the partitioning of this region by the colonial powers following World War I.  The Brits wanted to ensure the Jordan River would continue to flow to this region (not to French Syria).

The road north is lined by beautiful eucalyptus trees which used to provide much needed screening to travelers from Syrian snipers before Israel took control of the Golan following the ‘67 war.  We cross the not so “mighty” Jordan River, which is more like a stream.

Our first stop of the day is the Hula Reserve. The swamps of this region were drained many years ago in an effort to control malaria and make the area more usable for agriculture. Trying to “reclaim” nature resulted in a number of environmental problems.  The Hula Reserve was set up to counter these issues.  It is now a hospitable stop for the 500 to 700 Million birds who fly over Hula each fall and spring – coming from as far as Russia.  We saw cranes, storks, wild (Kosher, of course) boar, black shoulder kites (a rare type of bird), and many other species. The most intrepid of our group rode bicycles on a five mile loop around the reserve; the rest deftly maneuvered golf carts.  This gives new meaning to “Biking with the Rabbi”. Our photos don’t even begin to do justice to the magnificent scenery.  The Rabbi used text from Ecclesiastes to get us to think about our responsibility as Jews to protect the environment.

Back on the bus, we were rewarded for our hard bicycling work with a snack of chocolate with pop rocks. Yes, pop rocks. Yummy.

Our historical tour continued as we then visited Korazim, the site of an ancient synagogue dating back to the first century CE.  Korazim is important to Christians and Muslims as well.  According to the Gospel, Jesus unsuccessfully preached there. The synagogue is quite ornate for this modest village.  It was settled by the heirs of Rabbi Yochanan Ben Zakai after the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 CE, a time when Judaism, as we now know it, and Christianity began to branch from their common roots.  Noting the subtle yet significant differences of this transition, our group discussed Hillel’s teaching which instructs us “What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbor,”  and contrasted this with the Christian teaching of “do unto others as you want done to you”.  Also, for the first time, our oral tradition was committed to writing (in Mishna and later Gemara which are integral parts of the Talmud).   “The world stands on three things: Torah, the service of God, and deeds of kindness,” as spoken by Shimon and reported in the Mishna, appears to be a timeless guidepost.  These three pillars stand today as the essence of our Mission Statement at Congregation Emanu-El today (i.e., worship, education, community).

Next stop was the mystical town of Tzfat (or Safed), the home of Kabbalah, an interpretive and mystical development of Judaism that began to develop as early as the 2^nd century CE and blossomed in this region in the 15^th century CE. Tzfat is a place of beautiful, ancient synagogues, winding cobblestone streets and lovely artists’ galleries high atop the hills.  The Rowden/Carton clan, along with the Bodingers, split off from the CEW group, to spend time with Wendy’s cousin, Laurie, who has lived in Tzfat since the mid-80’s. They visited Laurie’s home in the ancient Arab quarter. Laurie showed them where a Ketusha landed next to her home in 2006, while Laurie’s youngest, Margalit, was playing in a tree in their front yard.  The blast from the rocket knocked Margalit off her tree perch.  She and Laurie ran to the local bomb shelter; as another Ketusha landed in front of them. They were unhurt but a neighbor died.  This was a sobering reminder that Hezbollah is only 30 miles away. 

Back with the group, we are pleased to report that there was a little time left for shopping… 🙂      

Next stop is the Galil Winery on the Yiron Kibbutz where we sampled some of their award winning wines. Suffice it to say that we all did our best to support the local economy.  We will be visiting another winery tomorrow, but the Galil wines will definitely be on everyone’s short list for what to serve at Passover.

This marathon day ends with dinner at Rabbis Howard and Jen’s favorite restaurant in the Galilee, Nachalim.  We are a happy, tired crew.  And, yes, we are ready for what tomorrow will bring!

Peggy and Ellen help welcome us to the Hula Nature Reserve

 

The Rabbis Goldsmith are ready to ride!

 

Marcie and Tony “gearing up” for a ride around the lake

 

Jane, Hylene, Joanne and Dick take advantage of another form of transportation around the lake

 

Up in the sky: the rare sight of Cranes departing the Hula

Ellen leading the pack

 

Gene, Tony and Emily taking a short break from the riding action

 

John enjoying some wild mustard

 

Hinda checking out an ancient house in Korazim

Rabbi Goldsmith teaching about the rabbis in one of their ancient synagogues

 

Tony, Marcie, Susan, Diane, Gene and Joanne enjoying a text study of Lecha Dodi with Rabbi Goldsmith in Safed

 

Joan and Barrie taking a coffee break in the holy city of Safed

 

Wendy at the beautiful entrance to the Galil winery. (Lebanon begins on top of the hill on the right side.)

 

Tom, Gene and Ellen on a tour of the Galil Winery wine making facilities

 

John carefully inspects our first wine at the tasting

 

Howard and Muki say “L’Chaim!” at the end of a wonderful day

From Left to Right and Everywhere In Between: A 360 Degree View of the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict

The settlement of Efrat in Gush Etzion in the West Bank

by Emily Carton and Eric Lundblade

Today we heard from a variety of speakers with radically different views on the contemporary geopolitical situation in Israel. We have traveled through the West Bank on multiple occasions on this trip already, and today we learned more about the histories, conflicts, and perspectives that have led to the existing divisions of the land.

For the sake of consistency, throughout the rest of this post we will use the geographically-based term “West Bank,” although it should be noted that different parties with differing perspectives prefer diverse terms including “the territories,” “the occupied territories,” “Judea and Samaria,” and “Palestine.” As Muki noted several days ago, one’s choice of words in a politically and emotionally fraught conflict such as this carries considerable weight.

“If Israel wants to remain a democracy, it cannot rule over people who have no citizenship.” –Lior Amihai

The day began with a presentation by Lior Amihai, a young representative from the leftist organization Peace Now, which advocates for a two-state solution to the Israel-Palestine conflict. Our speaker is a member of Peace Now’s “Settlement Watch Team” and argued that it is in Israel’s long-term interest to withdraw the settlements that currently exist in the West Bank. If Israel wishes to remain a democratic state with a distinctly Jewish character, Lior claimed, it must allow the Palestinian people the right of self-determination. It was interesting to note Lior’s use of a language of occupation to describe the evolving situation on the ground.

“When it’s quiet, [Israelis] say there’s no need to make peace. When it’s violent, they say we can’t make peace.” –Linda Gradstein

Immediately following Lior’s presentation, we spoke with Linda Gradstein of The Media Line, whom many may know was a regional correspondent with NPR for many years. While she admired Lior’s optimism, she admitted that years of reporting on the conflict has led her to a more pessimistic outlook. She explained the difficulty of evacuating hundreds of thousands of Israeli citizens from the West Bank, over a hundred thousand of whom, she argued, are ideologically motivated to stay. “Israelis want three things,” she said, “and they can only have two.” They want a Jewish state, a democratic state, and the West Bank. With this thought in mind she led us to our bus, and we embarked on a short ride into Beit Jala (near Bethlehem), where we met with our next speaker.

“I want to coexist with you, but as two people with rights and dignity.” –Sami Adwan

Sami Adwan is a Palestinian academic at Bethlehem University whose stance on Israel has greatly evolved throughout the course of his life. Although he felt hatred towards Israel as a young man, the optimism he felt post-Oslo Accords led him to work towards bridging divides between Israelis and Palestinians. Among other projects, he has developed teaching materials that encourage greater understanding of different peoples’ historical narratives. He is also a founder of the Peace Research Institute in the Middle East (PRIME). The personal perspective he offered was unique and made a deep impression on many of our group members.

“Let us go home . . . to the places that made us who we are. This is the heartland. This is the home of the Jewish people.” –Eve Harow

Our last stop in this journey of political exploration was the settlement of Efrat in the Gush Etzion area of the West Bank. Eve Harow, an American Jew who made aliyah about 25 years ago, explained why she believes that the so-called “two-state solution” is not a viable option. She argued that the most realistic approach – and the approach that is most likely to ensure Jewish safety – is for Israel to present itself as strong and unwavering in its inhabitance of the land. Concession to Palestinian demands, she believes, will only result in greater suffering for all.

Today’s conversations were complicated, emotionally draining, but ultimately enlightening. We learned how this conflict is so much more complex than 90-second media clips might have us believe. On the bus ride between Bethlehem and Efrat, Rabbi Goldsmith reminded us of the story of Isaac and Ishmael, which not only couched the conflict in Biblical terms, but led us to reflect on the balance between separation and unity between these two closely related peoples.

We’re looking forward to spending a relaxing time in the north of Israel tomorrow, reflecting on our past as opposed to our very complicated present.

Lior Amihai from Peace Now explaining the settlement situation to our group in a meeting room at the Inbal Hotel

Linda Gradstein of Media Line (formerly of NPR) answering questions about the current situation with the Palestinians as we make our way to the West Bank town of Beit Jala

Transferring from our bus to a private Palestinian bus for the three minute ride into Beit Jala

Linda Gradstein moderated as Sami Adwan shared with us the Palestinian perspective on the last 65 years and today

Jane with Mrs. Adwan

Arthur follows up with a question for Sami after his wonderful presentation

Dick and Jen in Beit Jala

Linda Gradstein and Rabbi Goldsmith after our meeting with Sami Adwan

Eve Harow passionately explaining her perspective on the centrality of the West Bank for the State of Israel and the Jewish People

Exploring Our History on Mountains and in Tunnels

Walking on top of the world on top of Masada

by Marcie and Tony Aiuvalasit

It’s 8:30 AM on Shabbat and we are not in temple!  Instead we are on our way to Masada to experience our rebellion against the Romans. The day is beautiful- a cloudless sky of shining blue above the Judean Hills. We cross into the “Territories” passing a mosaic of Jewish and Arab communities awaiting ultimate “settlement” by a permanent boundary. Palestinians, Israelis and Tourists share the only road past Jericho and south along the western coast of the Dead Sea. Across the sea the MoabMountains of Jordan are the backdrop, Royal Date Palms are the foreground. We pass caves 4 and 5 of the Dead Sea Scroll discoveries and then are treated to the exceptional sight of a herd of ibex strolling along a ledge next to the road. The leader is a large male with a billy-goat goatee; younger males and many females – one of whom Ellen is convinced is pregnant. One female has a plastic bag stuck all around her muzzle that if not removed will end up killing her. Our guide Muki makes a valiant effort to subdue and rescue her, but her fear of man dooms her.

Arriving at our destination, we board the cable car and minutes later are on top of Masada, a huge Herodian fortress that was excavated by Yigal Yadin. Muki leads us past Herod’s palace, views of the Roman camps below, the water system and more while narrating the story of the Jew’s last stand against the Romans in 73CE that ended when those fighters decided that they and their families would rather die by their own hands than be taken as slaves by the Romans. Husbands killed their families and ten men were chosen to kill the other men and the last man standing would fall on his sword. Rabbi Goldsmith discussed this choice and its moral questions and compared it with another choice made by Rabbi Yochanon ben Zakkai to escape Jerusalem as the city was falling and with his sages re-establish Judaism and a religion of learning rather than sacrifice at Yavnah – one group fighting to the death and another adopting a new way forward to rebuild a people. As he has been doing throughout this amazing week, he gave us so much to think about.

Our next stop was less thinking and more doing! On to the Dead Sea! Some of us relaxed in the sun and others took the plunge.  Ellen, Marlene, Jane, Hinda, Bill, Marcie and Howard covered in black mud floated together photographed by Susan, Jen and Tom. Temple website here we come!

After a chance to rest and pack (for early start tomorrow) we gathered in a meeting room at the hotel to hear from Professor Paul Liptz an Israeli sociologist. Muki’s South African accent prepared us for Paul’s accent from Zimbabwe. Paul described the socio-economic breakdown of Israeli Society from the top 15 families down through the bottom 3% of society that is seemingly invisible due to their poverty and undocumented status. The facts and figures flew fast and furious and the group asked some important questions at the end of the presentation. Rabbi Goldsmith then led us in a brief havadalah ceremony marking both the end of Shabbbat and the end of our time together in Jerusalem.

Everyone then went off for dinner on their own. The intrepid (and not too over-tired) among us then headed to the Western Wall Tunnels. This tunnel burrows under the OldCity tracing the continuation of the Western Wall. The impossibly large stones of the wall, the impressive cisterns, and the dramatic setting gave us, once again, the sense of history all around us.

We can head up north to the Galilee tomorrow knowing that we’ve done a great job exploring Jerusalem to the fullest!

Muki tries to save an ibex with a plastic bag over its mouth

Jane gets ready to ascend Masada on the cable car

Marylin and Arthur exploring Masada

Joanne ready to enter Herod’s Palace on Masada

Hinda and Bill enjoying Masada

Barry gazing down at Herod’s palace on the northern edge of Masada

Jen ready to enter the baths at Masada

Ellen and Marlene enjoying the view from the top

Marcie and the pigeon holes atop Masada

Ellen and Marlene find a piece of home at the base of Masada while Muki looks on

Jen, Marylin and Barry enjoying the Dead Sea beach

Marlene and Ellen make sure that the Rabbi gets into the spirit!

Our Dead Sea swimmers

Our guide through the Western Wall Tunnels, Nimrod, showing us the geography that underlies Jerusalem and the Temple Mount

Examining a stone at the base of the Western Wall that is estimated to weigh 600 tons… how did they move that into position?!

Our intrepid crew of Western Wall Tunnel explorers

Running from Ancient Times to Today

Making our way to the Old City via the Ben Hinnom Valley

This morning started early… again! We left the hotel at 8 AM, this time on foot. Why not on a bus? Because today was the Jerusalem Marathon and seemingly EVERY road in Jerusalem was closed to traffic. As we departed the hotel there were runners going by the hotel who appreciated the cheers of our group. The lack of traffic and the excitement of the marathon added to the atmosphere of our morning.

When we got to the end of the street we entered the beautiful grounds of the ScottishChurch and, standing next to the church itself, gazed down at an important site called Ketef Hinom. At this site archeologists discovered ancient cave burial sites which, in and of themselves were unremarkable. But, at the back of one of those caves they found a tiny silver scroll and on that scroll were engraved the words of the Priestly Benediction from the book of Numbers (May God bless you and keep you, etc.). The scroll dated to the 7^th century BCE and is the oldest piece of our Bible ever to have been found. While at the site we also read from the book of Nehemiah about when Ezra and Nehemiah rediscovered the Torah and read it to all the people of Jerusalem.

From Ketef Hinom we headed down into Gay Ben Hinom, the Valley of Hinom and passed by more runners and a group of clowns and techno DJs playing music and dancing to encourage the runners… not something you see in Jerusalem every day! On our way up to the Jaffa Gate from the base of the valley we stopped to look at Yemin Moshe, the oldest settlement outside of the walls of the Old City. From there it was up up up to the Jaffa gate where there were not only clowns and stilt walkers and techno music, but Batman climing on the walls of the Old City… talk about old meets new!

Winding our way through the market we emerged onto the rooftops of the Old City and from one place could see all four quarters: Jewish, Christian, Armenian and Muslim. On the rooftop we studied a text from the Book of Kings describing the break up of the Northern and Southern kingdoms of Israel and Judah. Solomon’s ego fueled his desire for a huge Temple and huge palace. The taxes he levied on the northern tribes were so heavily that the kingdom spilt as soon as Solomon died. The text gave us a moment to reflect on the ways that ego can get in our way and can cause us to destroy things of great value.

From the rooftop we headed into the Jewish Quarter and to Hezekiah’s broad wall. We learned how Hezekiah built the wall to protect the Judaites inside from the Assyrian king Sennecherib who had already destroyed the Northern Kingdom of Israel. Refugees from the north had come for safety in Jerusalem and, from that moment on, we all became one people: The Jews.

We next visited the spot where those Jews came to pray. Standing at the Southern Wall excavations we paused to appreciate that our ancestors, thousands of years ago, had walked up the steps that we sat on to bring sacrifices to the Temple. We got a moment to reflect and then brought the offerings of our hearts up the steps to the Southern Wall. A bit more time in these amazing excavations and then it was off to the Western Wall for our encounter with what is considered Judaism’s most holy site. In groups and as individuals we approached the Wall and spent a few moments praying and reflecting on our good fortune to be at that spot.

After and hour’s break for lunch and shopping we walked to the Christian quarter for a short tour of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The faith and devotion of the Christian pilgrims to this site was inspiring. As we walked around the church we saw the places that Christian tradition teaches Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected. Muki explained the complex politics of the church which houses six different Christian denominations including the fact that Muslim family has held the key for the church for generations.

Tonight we attended Shabbat services at Yozma, a Reform congregation in the town of Modi’in, a few miles from Jerusalem. When we arrived the past-president of the congregation gave us an introduction to the congregation and welcomed us by sharing his personal journey to Reform Judaism and the history of Yozma. The service was lively and – obviously – all in Hebrew. Several of the members of our group were honored by being asked to participate in the service. It was warm and joyous way to welcome Shabbat.

After the service we went to different homes for dinner with the congregants. This was a highlight of the trip so far. We got to really spend time with Israelis, learn about their families and see just how similar they are to us. The hosts could not have been more gracious and welcoming!

Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem!

The marathoners running by our hotel

Barry, Joan, Arthur and Marylin atop Ketef Hinnom
with the Jerusalem skyline in the background

Jen reads to us from the book of Nehemiah at Ketef Hinnom

 The caped crusader encouraging the runners from the walls of the Old City

On the rooftops of the Old City

 Studying Hekekiah while standing at his wall in the Old City

Emily ascends the Southern Wall Steps as her ancestors did thousands of years ago

 Joan in a money changing booth

 Learning from the Talmud how “baseless hatred” caused the destruction of The Temple

Bill at the Western Wall

 Tom and Peggy on the plaza outside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher

John and Wendy before services at Yozma

After a delicious Shabbat dinner with our gracious hosts

Memory and a Market

The entrance to the Children s’ Memorial at Yad Vashem

by Hylene and Dick Dublin

After an enjoyable dinner and evening the previous night, we eagerly anticipated our first full day in Jerusalem.  No one could have anticipated the emotionally challenging and meaningful series of experiences which the day would hold.

Having begun with a tasty and filling breakfast buffet at the beautiful Inbal Hotel, we boarded our bus and took off for Yad Vashem—a 2^nd rebuilt version which features the evolving Israeli notion of the Holocaust, better known more accurately in Hebrew as the Shoah (catastrophe). No one could have anticipated the painful experiences in store for us nor the pride in identifying with the bravery exhibited by our Jewish brethren.  At Yad Vashem, we are initially moved by the Rabbi’s presentation of his grandfather’s letter to his son regarding their escape from a once loved Germany that had become a Nazi terror. The letter’s message emphasized the importance of growth, strength, and rebuilding which is also a significant part of the current Israeli response to the Shoah.

As we tour the amazing symbolic replica of the evolution of the Nazi campaign of horror, we recognize and identify with the pain and constant adaptations to terror which our relatives and Jewish cohorts had to make through the many evolutions of Nazi terror resulting in the final solution.  We admire the plan to honor the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto uprising and how they represented some of the many strengths demonstrated by the six million. Those strengths included not only physical rebellion but also the strength of a woman who stays with her grandmother rather than fleeing, the strength of a mother staying with an infant child, the heroism of simply putting one foot in front of the other each day.  

The Children’s Memorial involves a move into darkness only broken by brief candlelight heralding the names of the 1.5 million children destroyed in the Shoah – and how this affects the Israeli focus on “never again!” Following the Children’s Memorial we gathered for a short Memorial Service led by Rabbi Goldsmith that concluded with the message that our duty to those who have died is to not only remember them, but to live our lives to the fullest, to celebrate our accomplishments and to realize our dreams.

After the gravity of Yad Vashem, Machane Yehuda Market offers a welcome break where the open air stalls proved an opportunity to experience the smells, tastes and confluence of humanity in Jerusalem.

The day’s touring is concluded with a visit to the National Military Cemetery on Mt.Herzl. There we see the burial place of Theodore Herzl, who as Muki our guide remarks, initially believed that all Jewish children should be baptized Catholic (he was a well assimilated Austrian) until he learned of two international problems which demonstrated to him the need for a Jewish homeland to support Jewish identity. We also visit the graves of Yitzhak Rabin, Golda Meir and other significant leaders of the nation.

Our day culminates with a lecture by Dr. Shlomo Balsam at the hotel where he described the significance of mixing humanity with the need for strength in the ongoing challenge to the Jewish people.

Following dinner everyone went off in small groups or on their own to enjoy dinner in Jerusalem.

John preparing to enter the Yad Vashem museum

 

Barrie and Joan listen as Muki explains the evolution of the Yad Vashem museum over the years.

 

Emily and Eric having some fun as we wait for the bus

 

Hinda and Bill “spicing” things up

 

Marlene, Ellen and Howard enjoying something sweet

 

Susan and Gene make their way through the crowd at Machane Yehuda

 

The resting place of Yitzchak and Leah Rabin on Mt. Herzl

From Moses to King David to Jerusalem

Our group on the top of Tel Azekah overlooking the Valley of Elah
where David fought Goliath

by Ellen Linhart

This morning began with a wakeup call at 6:45am, luggage out the door at 7:15.  Marlene and I went downstairs to a most delicious buffet breakfast with everyone scrambling for the wonderful coffee, fresh fruit and inevitable veggie salads among many other delicious items, but to me the most wonderful was the natural honeycomb with honey dripping off!  Then off to Kibbutz Sde Boker where we visited the gravesite of David ben Gurion and his wife.  We were totally distracted by the Israeli regiment that were doing drills accompanied by music and flag raising while trying to listen to Muki describe the life of Ben Gurion.

We passed Sde Boker Kibbutz where I spent a few weeks 40 years ago picking peaches  at 4 AM in the morning when the sun was not too hot.  Unfortunately, with this busy day we were not able to stop and visit my old haunting grounds!! From there we hiked the Ein Avdat Spring, an amazing canyon with an oasis in the biblical Wilderness of Zin. We climbed steep stairs and a very narrow ladder which was built into the cliffs—Whew!!—that was a workout!!! What a beautiful view at the top and we could just imagine the wandering Jews witnessing the same spectacle 3,000 years ago. 

Delicious lunch at a roadside Aroma with tasty salads, sandwiches and how about that fresh bread!  But the biggest treat for Marlene and me was the Iced Aroma that tasted like a frozen frappacino!!  YUMMY!!!

And now to Tel Azakah for an enactment of the story of David and Goliath as we look over the Valley of Elah.  Tony as Goliath (an academy award-winning performance) and Eric with his ginger colored hair, the “perfect” hero David. As Rabbi Howard would say “It’s not the power of strength, it’s the power of faith.” It is so amazing to see the topography change from arid desert to lush and fragrant greenery within 45 minutes of a bus ride.

And now we enter Jerusalem, a very special place – the place where our ancestors turned three times a day to pray for the last 2000 years… how lucky are we a mere 48 hours from NYC to be entering such a holy place and making aliya to Jerusalem!!! As a group we stopped above the city with Jerusalem spread out below us and celebrated our good fortune to be here.  We had some wine (grape juice) while saying a prayer looking at this wondrous site… Jerusalem is a city of dwellings but more importantly a city of all kinds of peoples from all different walks of life.  The next three days we will explore all of the historic beauty of this city.

After checking into the Inbal Jerusalem Hotel we freshened up quickly and went to The Night Spectacular, a lazar light show at the Tower of David—what an historic depiction of the history of Jerusalum told on the old walls in amazing animation!!  It was loved by all….

Finally, DINNER!!!  And what a feast at the Ticho House catching up on the real wine and lots of laughs and fun…

OFF TO SLEEP UNTIL TOMORROW!!!

 Some pre-Army young people practicing a ceremony at the grave site of David ben Gurion and his wife, Paula.

Hinda reading the words of David ben Gurion with the Wilderness of Zin in the background

Gene getting ready for the hike up Ein Avdat

The Rabbis Goldsmith enjoying a break at a pool in Ein Avdat

Marcie doing some rock climbing above a pool in Ein Avdat

Diane and Bill enjoying Ein Avdat

 Ellen (our intrepid blogger for the day) and Marlene take a break in Ein Avdat

 The group who chose to climb out of the canyon before the steep part (the rest of the group chose the comfort of the bus to reach the top)

 Winding our way towards the top of the canyon

 The ladder to the top of the canyon (Jacob’s Ladder? Stairway to Heaven? Perhaps a little bit of both!)

 Wendy and Hinda enjoying the view from the top of Tel Azekah overlooking the Valley of Elah where David fought Goliath

 David defeats Goliath in our dramatic reenactment of that fateful battle (thank you to our players: Susan as Narrator, Tony as Goliath, Peggy as Israelite, Eric as David and Muki as Saul)

 Joanne gazing at Jerusalem’s Old City upon our arrival

 Hylene and Dick with the “City of Gold” in the background

Jen and Peggy polishing off dessert after dinner at Beit Ticho

Meeting at the Well: Beginning Where our People Began

Our group explores the “Carpentry Shop” on the bottom
of the Ramon Crater in Israel’s Negev Desert

Today’s Entry by: Peggy and Tom LoCastro

Today we gathered together to start our journey at the Carlton Hotel in Tel Aviv… some had traveled to Petra, Jordan prior to joining the group while others traveled directly from the states.

After meeting our tour guide, Muki, our bus driver, Yisrael, we started our travels south to Tel Be’er Sheva which 4,000 years ago is where Abraham settled after entering the Land of  Canaan.  The group was intrigued by the ruins and the history of the remains of the city which was home to less than fifteen hundred residents.

We learned about how they dug a well 220 feet deep outside the walls of the elevated city, and how they built the stone cistern within the walls to store the water for the city.

We continued our southern route to the Ramon Crater where we learned how this wonder was formed, which was similar to the Grand Canyon, not formed by a river, but by rain and erosion over millennia.

Our next stop was the Carpentry Shop, which was inside the crater, where we learned about the magna rock forming and breaking off to form what gave the Carpentry name since the rocks resembled wood pieces.  Having walked to the top of this formation, it was a breathtaking view within the crater.

We are on our way to our welcome dinner at the hotel, at the top of a cliff overlooking Ramon Crater.  Looking forward to day two.

Ellen and Marlene enjoy breakfast on the water at the Carlton

Emily and Eric pause while loading the bus to begin our journey

Diane and Bill get ready to enter Tel Be’er Sheva

Tom and Peggy enjoying a bit of shade in the desert

Arthur and Marylin standing on ancient Be’er Sheva
with the modern day city of the same name in the background.

Getting ready to enter the ancient cistern with our site-mandated helmets.
What a fashionable group!

Descending into a cistern dug about 3000 years ago (the handrails are modern…
they go with the helmets).

I think that sign is supposed to say “Rabbis Goldsmith”

Wendy and Emily enjoying the view at the top of Makhtesh Ramon – The Ramon Crater. And yes, the view is even more amazing than it looks in this picture.

Our guide Muki uses some sand at the bottom of the crater to teach us how this unique geological structure came to be. 

The rocks that gave the Carpentry Shop its name